30'' Green Leaves Wakizashi Clay Tempered T10 Japanese Samurai Sword Real Hamon

$145.0 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store wangyanfang2016-1
(1275) 100.0%,

Location: Longquan, Zhejiang
Ships to: US,
Item: 203911015927

Return shipping will be paid by:Seller
All returns accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:14 Days
Refund will be given as:Money Back
Return policy details:
Type:Wakizashi
Edge:Single,Curved
Handle Material:Wood
Tang:Full
Blade Material:T10 High Carbon Steel
Dexterity:Ambidextrous
Authenticity:Original
Theme:Samurai
Original/Reproduction:Original
Wang-katana2011:Wang-katana2011
Style:Japanese
Handedness:Double-Handed
Country/Region of Manufacture:China
Color:Green

Product Parameter: Item Number: KT061 Blade Material: T10 high carbon steel Overall Length: 78cm/30.7” Blade Length: 50cm/19.68” Handle Length: 20 cm/7.87” Blade Width: 3.2 cm/1.26” Thickness: 0.7cm/0.28” Bo-hi(blood groove): Yes Blade Hardness(HRC): 60 Tsuba(Hand Guard): Brass Tang(nakago): Full tang Hamon: Handmade Real hamon Samegawa: Black rayskin Saya (scabbard): Matte lacquered wood saya Craft: Fully hand forged, Hand traditional polished, and clay tempered, quenching,etc. Other fittings: Brass habaki & seppa & fuchi & kashira & menuki + Japanese synthetic silk sageo/ito The sword stand is not include!!!ENGRAVING SERVICEHOW TO DISASSEMBLE A JP SWORDSWORD MAKING PROCESSESNOTICEDELIVERY DETAILSENGRAVING SERVICEIt is freefor engraving English words,Chinese characters and Japanese Kanji. You need pay additional $20 for engraving patterns (dragon, lion, etc.) or other logos.HOW TO DISASSEMBLE A JP SWORDSWORD MAKING PROCESSESFormingSwords can be shaped by a variety of metalworking techniques.The primary techniques are forging and stock removal. Forging uses heat to bring the material to a malleable state. The material is then hammered to shape, typically using hammer and anvil together with specialized set and fuller tools depending on the particular technique. Stock removal shapes the sword from prepared stock that is larger in all dimensions than the finished sword by filing, grinding and cutting.QuenchingAfter the blade has been shaped, the sword would be quenched. We quench our swords in either water or oil. Water quenching produces a tougher edge which can also be hardened further more using clay. Blades quenched in oil are still considerably hardened and do have superior flexibility compared to a water quenched blade. The more rapidly a blade cools down, the harder it becomes. Thus, when a hot blade enters the water, the water also gains heat and the blade will cool more gradually. Therefore, the first part of the blade that enters the water will be the hardest. Therefore, the technique of quenching was also very important. If a blade has any flaws from forging (air bubbles, ash), it will break immediately during the quenching process.Tempering After quenching, the sword will be quite tough and brittle, with little flexibility. To overcome this, the blade would undergo a tempering process. The blade would be reheated to a certain temperature degree then allowed to cool naturally. The blade would be slightly less tough afterward but have a greater degree of flexibility – the art would be to perfectly balance the blade for toughness, sharpness and flexibility. Modifying ShapeFinishing Finishing encompasses polishing, decorating, and crafting and assembling the hilt, guard and sheath. The swordsmith would be most concerned with the state of the blade itself and possibly decorating the blade and preparing the guards and pommel. Other artisans would likely be involved in the work of fashioning the hilt, sheath and other furniture; and in any fine decoration. PolishingWhen the rough blade is completed, the swordsmith turns the blade over to a polisher, whose job it is to refine the shape of a blade and improve its aesthetic value. The polishing process almost always takes longer than even crafting, and a good polish can greatly improve the beauty of a blade, while a bad one can ruin the best of blades. Early polishers used three types of stone, whereas a modern polisher generally uses seven.On high quality blades, only the back of the blade and the adjacent sides, are polished to a mirror-like surface. To bring out the grain and hamon, the center portion of the blade, and the edge are usually given a matte finish. Microscopic scratches in the surface vary, depending on hardness. Smaller but more numerous scratches in the harder areas reflect light differently from the deeper, longer scratches in the softer areas. The harder metal appears more matte than the softer, and the manner in which it scatters light is less affected by the direction of the lighting.After the blade is finished it is passed on to a mountings-maker for fashioning the hilt, sheath and other mountings.NOTICEInternational Buyers – Please Note:a) Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyer’s responsibility.b) Please check with your country’s customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying.DELIVERY DETAILSThe shipment will be prepared and get shipment as soon as possible when you place the order. The shipping time is different according to the different area. US: 10-15 daysAU: 8-12 daysCa: 10-15 daysOthers: 25-60 daysIt is international shipment, so there are many factors influenced, please let us know if there is any question, we will try our best to make things right for you.

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